MILAN — Regardless of the pandemic, Bikkembergs is dedicated to creating a splash.
“Since 2017, I’ve been calling on board new licensing companions which are extra in sync with the model’s ethos,” stated Dario Predonzan, the corporate’s chief working officer.
Banking on one of many key classes for the model, Bikkembergs is kicking off a brand new three-year licensing deal for design, manufacturing and international distribution of its underwear and beachwear collections, the latter representing 12 % of gross sales.
The brand new Italy-based companion Space B — which produces beachwear and underwear below license for manufacturers together with Roberto Cavalli, Iceberg and Karl Lagerfeld, amongst others — replaces former licensee CSP Worldwide.
“The corporate is younger and energetic and that’s what we want for the model proper now,” Predonzan stated, noting that the social media posts associated to the beachwear and underwear classes usually generate a flurry of feedback and curiosity.
Whereas the primary assortment below the deal will bow for spring 2022, the brand new companions developed a beachwear capsule assortment for ladies, an untapped class, which is ready to debut in shops subsequent Might.
Predonzan described the transfer as a take a look at and take a look at method, though the ladies’s put on enterprise is strong. It at the moment accounts for 10 % of total ready-to-wear gross sales and 40 % of the footwear enterprise.
“Our core enterprise is and will probably be rooted in males’s put on, because the model has constructed its personal DNA on the thought of optimistic masculinity and a sportswear aesthetics,” the chief working officer stated.
Regardless of an unprecedented 12 months, Bikkembergs managed to include its losses, reporting a ten % drop in gross sales in comparison with 2019. The manager didn’t present whole gross sales figures for 2020.
“That is fairly a optimistic consequence as a result of different firms are displaying high-double-digit decreases,” Predonzan stated. He talked about e-commerce as a critical booster, rising 20 % year-on-year, and in addition underscored how a streamlined retail community helped include bills. The net channel generates 10 % of Bikkembergs’ revenues.
“That is positively the skyrocketing division, which is why we’re dedicated to take a position on it and extra broadly concentrate on digital advertising initiatives,” the manager stated.
Late final 12 months, the corporate opened two new shops in Russia in partnership with native operator Vogue Dialogue. A concentrate on the nation — among the many best-performing markets alongside China and Italy — is within the pipeline for 2021, too. Predonzan defined that the model will add three new shops, two in Saint Petersburg and one in Moscow, by the top of the 12 months.
Bikkembergs counts 10 shops in Russia and 30 globally, 5 of that are straight operated by the corporate’s shareholder Canudilo Trendy Avenue, the Chinese language retail big that took over the model in 2019, buying the remaining 49 % stake within the model it didn’t already personal from Italian firms Zeis Excelsa and Sinv.
“Russia in 2020 continued to be on high of our priorities particularly because it carried out fairly effectively regardless of the pandemic….It was much less impacted by the COVID-19-related financial fallout than Italy and Europe,” Predonzan famous. As an example, orders for the pre-fall and fall 2021 collections are rising within the nation.
A retail push in Italy was additionally deliberate for 2020 however openings had been postponed “for prudence causes” together with the reopening of a Milan unit. The corporate closed its retailer within the metropolis in 2018.
“We continued to financial institution on our key market technique, leveraging on our strong foundation of areas the place we’re famend,” Predonzan stated. The important thing geographic areas embrace Russia Italy, Spain and the Center East, with a brand new retailer lately opened in Cairo, Egypt.
Bikkembergs’ partnership with International Manufacturers Group Holding Ltd. for the manufacturing and worldwide distribution of the model’s footwear collections inked in 2019 has additionally helped the Milan-based label push its presence within the U.S., the place it’s out there at Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom.
Total, Bikkembergs counts round 500 wholesale purchasers, representing 70 % of the enterprise. Predonzan stated the market has responded very effectively to the reorganization he set in movement from 2019, by reuniting the model’s a number of traces to concentrate on its core enterprise below the Bikkembergs identify, previously Dirk Bikkembergs.
Along with the brand new beachwear and underwear deal, Bikkembergs operates a number of manufacturing and distribution licensing agreements: Sinv for rtw; International Manufacturers Group for footwear; Ratti and La Compagnia delle Pelli, for textile and leather-based equipment, respectively; Elisabet for junior footwear; Two Brothers for the manufacturing and distribution of its kids’s put on collections, in addition to Fragrance Holding for fragrances and Arkano Srl for males’s jewels.