MILAN — Isabel Marant is unveiling its first eyewear assortment in a licensing settlement with Safilo Group, which alerts an elevated consideration to an area buyer, in accordance with Angelo Trocchia, chief government officer of the Italian producer.
“Luxurious will at all times be a phase prosperous shoppers will gravitate towards, however there are enterprise alternatives out there by means of licenses which have a unique scale and which have an area significance and worth,” Trocchia defined.
Safilo’s aim, he continued, is “not simply to tick off a model,” and add licenses to its current pool. Zeroing in on “a transparent shopper goal or geographic want” is more and more key.
Working example, Isabel Marant’s assortment of sun shades and optical frames, which launches for spring 2021, embodies the model’s “Parisian aesthetic, with a recognizable and complicated type and French creativity,” Trocchia noticed. Leveraging “a powerful connection between Safilo’s design crew and the style home allowed to translate the essence of the model into the glasses — which is the fantastic thing about the problem.”
The gathering, beneath a 10-year licensing settlement, includes a spread of timeless shapes crafted in skinny acetate and enhanced by distinctive particulars, such because the model’s signature Silver Leaf as a metallic trim on the entrance or leaf- formed nose-pads. The chiseled wire-core is subtly seen by means of the bilayer acetate of the temples, and the Isabel Marant emblem sits on the exterior left temple. The tip-tip is formed as a leaf.
The gathering will likely be launched with an advert marketing campaign starring Rebecca Leigh photographed by Juergen Teller.
Trocchia stated he believes “the patron needs increasingly to be handled as an individual — in truth, I don’t actually just like the time period shopper,” and that, accordingly, he sees the regional and native dimension as one which Safilo have to be extra attentive to.
This implies the plan is to keep away from an indiscriminate distribution of the Isabel Marant assortment. Trocchia expressed confidence the road would carry robust enterprise within the first yr within the U.Okay. and North Europe, along with France. He additionally pointed to potential progress within the United Arab Emirates and different areas of the Center East. The gathering will likely be distributed within the U.S. in a second part.
One other instance of this technique is the 10-year licensing settlement signed final yr with Ports 1961, whose distribution was introduced as restricted to mainland China.
“This license is essential for the event of that area for Safilo. Chinese language shoppers will at all times be well-disposed towards main luxurious manufacturers, however I’m satisfied that they are going to be more and more extra delicate to Chinese language manufacturers in Asia,” contended Trocchia. Equally to Isabel Marant, that license presents a geographic alternative and the potential to develop a particular buyer cluster.
“China is a key strategic market in our improvement plans, and we all know how vital it’s for eyewear manufacturers to be regionally related to their goal teams, particularly in China, which could be very particular, not solely by way of becoming but in addition with distinct tastes and native shopper developments,” Trocchia stated.
Safilo’s license with Levi Strauss & Co. for the design, manufacturing and distribution of Levi’s branded eyewear collections, efficient January 2020, responds to a different enterprise technique, catering to Millennials and Gen Zers all around the world, permitting the corporate the chance to develop within the up to date market phase.
Safilo has been working to revamp a brand new portfolio shortly — an “more and more key high quality,” Trocchia stated, because the eyewear business has gone by means of main shake-ups, together with the creation of a three way partnership between LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Marcolin, known as Thélios, to supply eyewear collections for manufacturers beneath the umbrella of the French big luxurious group.
This yr marks the exit of the profitable Dior model, whereas the exit of the Fendi label is predicted in June. Specifically, the group has been re-balancing its steady of proprietor and licensed manufacturers. This nevertheless, Trocchia cautioned, doesn’t imply a retreat from licenses, which “stay elementary.” Safilo produces and distributes eyewear for labels starting from DB Eyewear by David Beckham, Missoni, Marc Jacobs and Moschino to Tommy Hilfiger and Beneath Armour, not too long ago launched within the U.S.
Safilo’s owned manufacturers, starting from the eponymous label, Polaroid, Smith and Carrera to Blenders Eyewear and Privé Revaux ought to account for greater than 50 % in 2024, and Trocchia stated he expects to succeed in that concentrate on forward of that date.
As reported, Safilo revenues final yr amounted to 780.3 million euros, a 16.9 % drop in contrast with 939 million euros within the earlier yr.
Within the fourth quarter, gross sales grew 3 % at fixed alternate to 225.6 million euros (falling by 2.1 % at present alternate), as its Chinese language enterprise greater than tripled within the final quarter of the yr.
The current acquisitions of Blenders Eyewear and Privé Revaux additionally boosted the group’s on-line operations, with on-line enterprise rising 175.5 % in 2020 versus 2019.
General, Safilo has been specializing in its digital transformation, its direct-to-consumer technique and growing its share of business-to-business.